Yangon – Introducing Myanmar

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Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
The Shwedagon Pagoda might well be one of the most important sites for locals, and the first result on any search engine for tourists looking for city highlights. The breathtaking beauty of this Buddhist site starts from any of the four entrances you come in from.

A unique gateway

With more than 5 million people, Yangon (also known as Rangoon) is the most populated city in Myanmar. It is the starting point to many who enter the country by air through Yangon International Airport (RGN) in search of authentic touristic experiences since the country opened its doors to tourism in 2012. For passports that need a visa (like mine), the fee is about USD 50. There are cheap flights from the nearby, more popular cities such as Bangkok (USD 60), Ho Chi Minh City (USD 90), Taipei (USD 120), Singapore (USD 15), and Kuala Lumpur (USD 25). Once in the city, there are plenty of destinations served by bus routes that depart daily from Yangon to (especially) Bagan, Mandalay, Naypyitaw among other destinations. The seat booking can be done online through a broker website and they usually accept credit/debit card payments.

The high density of people, the trash scattered everywhere, and the traffic jams can be a bit too overwhelming for the first impression of any country, making many tourists not wanting to spend too much time here. However, if one is capable of looking over those issues that are common to all developing countries, it is possible to see that the many beauties of this place are in the amazing landmarks as well as in the details and the simplicity of the life of its residents.

The location of the country between South and Southeast Asia, and having the busiest international airport of the country, contributes to its unique blend of Indian, Thai, Bangladesh, Chinese and others, in cuisine and religion.

Basic daily expenses

Some average daily expenses for a budget trip to Yangon are as follow:

  • Daily transportation by train and bus, less than USD 5. A regular 8-kilometer taxi ride would cost around USD 6
  • 2.5 GB of data (SIM card included), USD 12
  • Daily meals (3), USD 10
  • Night at a budget hostel, USD 10

To explore this city, I consider three days to be enough time. Some landmarks and touristic spots are outside of the city center, so it might take a whole day or a good part of it to see them without a rush. Below, there is a list of my favorite places and activities to do in Yangon.

Where to go?

1. People’s Park

Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
Local young ladies having a pleasant walk in the People’s Park. Even Myanmar teenagers with their colorful traditional outfits fall for the most modern trends of social media. In the photo, they look for the best angle with the pond and the Shwedagon Pagoda as the background. The entrance to this park is completely free.

This considerably large public park hosts a beautiful pond, walking trails, and many green areas. It is also a popular meeting point for locals to hang out and spend some quality time among family or friends. There are small kiosks with snacks and drinks scattered around the park, as well as some eateries and higher-end restaurants. It is a good idea to include a visit to Shwedagon Pagoda if you make your way to this place since it is just crossing the street to the east.

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One of the many amusements of People’s Park is this amazing treehouse. The structure built around the tree, and not using the tree itself, provides a bird’s view of the whole park and beyond. Even with a backpack on, the short hike is still worth the effort.
Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
A boy with Buddhist robes plays among the branches of a tree. Without any responsible adult on sight, I believe he was on his own for a while. In one hand he holds a cucumber and in the other some money. It is common to see people on robes living on offerings that lay people give them. This photo was taken from a treehouse built at the top of the same tree.

2. Shwedagon Pagoda

Just east of People’s Park lies the Shwedagon Pagoda. The official information says that inside the 99-meter central stupa, strands of Buddha’s hair are kept stored. The tourists blend with the locals in this place of worship and pilgrimage. Luckily for the outsiders, some monks speak good English and it is possible to take part on an explanatory tour if asked. This is certainly the place that cannot be left outside of any trip to Yangon. The entrance fee for foreigners is about USD8.

Some of the rules to enter this place is taking off shoes and not wearing shorts or pants above the knees. Taking pictures is allowed without any problem, and access to almost every corner is permitted too.

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Two boys show their Buddhist devotion by performing a ritual consisting of showering the Buddha statue with a small vase. The courtyard has devotional centers at every cardinal point.
Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
Surprisingly, Shwedagon Pagoda is not only a place for devote prayer and rituals, but also a place to relax and recreation for the family. It was easy to imagine these people just sitting in a park eating, scrolling their phones and socializing, instead of being surrounded by Buddha statues practically everywhere.
Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
Four boys with Buddhist robes walk inside the walls of Shwedagon Pagoda. Even for a short period of time, many Buddhists devote their time to learn the traditions proper of this religion. Teaming up like this group is a common sight.

3. Hlawga National Park

Spending some time in Hlawga National Park is definitely a good idea to lose sight of tourists and the city hustle. The place is big enough to walk around and hear the sounds of nature, go for a boat ride, or just have a nap in one of the resting shacks. After buying the entrance in the ticketing area, there is a bus that goes through the park dropping and picking up visitors every half hour or so.

Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
The Hlawga National Park is a fairly large green area north of Yangon. Inside the park, there are many resting shacks, ponds, marshes, some exotic birds and animals, and many, many monkeys. One of the things to love about this place is its almost complete quietness and basically the lack of tourists swarming every point of interest. Entrance is just USD 0.50.

4. Htauk Kyant War Memorial Cemetery

North of Yangon, this war memorial is worth visiting if you are into history, and more particularly, into that of World War II events. With more than 6000 graves and more than 27,000 names inscribed in the pillars of the main structure, this place honors the memory of those allied soldiers who died in Myanmar fighting the forces of the Japanese Empire. In the central area of this memorial site, are also inscribed the words “They died for all free men” in English, Hindi, Urdu, Gurmukhi, and Burmese.

Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
One can never know the magnitude of the Second World War until visiting places like the Htauk Kyant War Memorial Cemetery. Here, the remains of soldiers of many creeds lie below well-trimmed graves. The Burma Campaign included the forces of the British Empire, China, and the United States, against the invasion of the Japanese Empire.
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The names of 27,000 soldiers in the service of the British crown who lost their lives fighting in Myanmar during the WWII are recorded in Htauk Kyant (also Taukkyan) War Memorial Cemetery. The customary rites accorded to their personal beliefs could not be performed, so they are honored with this landmark. The entrance to this place is free.

5. Walk the city streets

Simple as that. The streets of any city can say a lot about the local culture. Yangon is no exception. Observing the daily life of the citizens of Yangon is already a sight worth having. Temples, synagogues, churches, shrines, all can be found in this genuine melting pot. Besides, fruit markets, street stalls, and other stores offer curious bites and good deals. The streets are quite safe to walk during the day. At nightfall, although is also safe overall, it is wise to take basic precautions, such as avoid lonely and dark areas and keep the personal belongings on sight at all times.

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Some men have a leisure time playing draughts just in front of a colonial-style building, while they wait for customers for the repair shop. To be out on the streets is a common thing for eateries as well.
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People wait for the public transport. Pigeons wait to swarm any small piece of food from the people or the nearby eateries.
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The Sule Pagoda is right in the middle of a major roundabout in Yangon. Beautifully golden and adorned with shrines and statues, it makes a distinctive landmark during day and night. The contrast between this religious construction and office buildings surrounding the area makes this sight admirable.

6. Nan Thida Ferry Terminal

Stalls of every kind cram the surrounding boarding area of this passenger pier. The scene might be a bit overwhelming for a foreigner, but there is enough space to watch from afar, and it is especially worthwhile at dusk, where one can witness the Yangon River “rush hour”. The boats waiting for passengers to be carried from Yangon to Dala at the other side of the river is matched with the noise of engines, seagulls, and people bargaining for commodities before departing to their homes.

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At sunset, many Yangon locals travel across the Yangon River heading back home in Dala. The scene is completed with the loud noise of the engines of the boats, the noise of the pier market and the seagulls looking for opportunities to loot.

7. Yangon Circular Railway

It is the local commuter rail network that serves the metropolitan area of Yangon. This loop system with more than thirty stations connects other towns suburbs located at the city outskirts. The whole loop takes about three hours to complete. It is used by a wide range of commuters, mostly workers. Its incredibly affordable price makes it an ideal opportunity to see a cross-section of the life in Yangon while enjoying a corn in a stick, or a cold drink bought from the informal sellers that come up and down at some stations. The hours of service go from 4 am to 10 pm, and you can start the travel from Yangon Central Railway Station.

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A woman with her daughter prepares herself for the arrival of the Yangon Circular Railway. This arrival is the opportunity to sell their crops and other commodities to the passengers. People often cover their faces with a special mud that dries yellow to protect their skin from the sunlight.
Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
Vendors get ready to load fruits, vegetables or other commodities to the passengers of the Yangon Circular Railway. The passengers do not have to alight the train to get these products as they are raised and passed through the windows. Some other vendors board the train and travel through some stations and then alight.
Travel and photography in Southeast Asia
Passenger service. This fine vendor offers cigarettes, peanuts and betel nuts prepared at the moment. It is common among men to chew betel nuts, and it is noticeable due to the red colored teeth or the red stains on the streets. I heard once that for these men, only the horses have their teeth white.

Want to see more of Yangon? I created this gallery to display more of the unique charm of this city.